When Karl Lagerfeld died in 2019, the world mourned the passing of not only the creative power behind the revival of Chanel, but a true visionary who shaped the global fashion industry, in a career spanning over five decades. As Sotheby's presents some cherished possessions of this most enigmatic of characters, Claudia Schiffer remembers her close relationship with the man behind the shades - her mentor, inspiration and friend.
What influence did Karl have on your career?
Karl was my magic dust. He transformed me from a shy German girl into a supermodel. He taught me about fashion, style and survival in the fashion business. I will be eternally grateful to him. He is the only person who could make black and white colourful. What Andy Warhol was to art, he was to fashion.
When did you first meet Karl and what was your first impression of him?
Karl came into my life when I was just 18, and changed it forever. He had seen my first UK Vogue cover, shot by Herb Ritts and asked to see me. I entered his studio on the Rue Cambon, full of nerves but within hours I was being fitted for his new collection. Lagerfeld was so incisive and worked at great speed. The next day, I was driving with the crew to Deauville, to shoot the first of my many Chanel campaigns. I woke up way too early and went for a horseback ride on the beach, to reflect on the location so connected with Coco Chanel’s own history. It felt truly magical. I adored wearing those iconic Chanel designs, like the signature boater and cardigan-like jackets.
What was it that drew the two of you together, to form such a close working relationship and personal friendship?
Karl called me Clodia! We often spoke in German, which no-one around us could understand, which he loved. There was an immediate sense of complicity and I loved Karl’s sharp humour. I remember us bonding over the fact that often, at work, we were the only two people left full of energy at three in the morning. Karl was always full of energy and I was just always full of adrenaline, loving every second of working with him.
How important was Karl to your career as a supermodel?
After being discovered by Ellen von Unwerth, a fellow German photographer, it was Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel that launched my high fashion career. I first started working for the house back in the late 1980s and that collaboration continued on and off for over 30 years. I remember those early catwalk shows and campaigns vividly.
Karl had a very carefully styled public persona. He was instantly recognisable. What was he like behind closed doors?
He was forthright, charismatic and decisive in every aspect of his life, but it was his sharp sense of humour that really shone behind closed doors, as well as his encyclopaedic knowledge of art and culture that he generously shared at every opportunity.
What is your favourite memory of Karl at work and favourite memory of Karl at home?
For one of the Chanel campaigns, we went to Vienna and I remember Karl dancing the waltz in front of us, laughing. This remains my favourite memory of him. I also recall a shoot in Munich for the A/W 1993 Chanel campaign – an amazing denim collection – where we were both so happy to be back in our home country. We enjoyed eating our favourite German delicacies such as Hefeklöse (yeast dumplings), German sausages and sauerkraut and trying to get the rest of the crew to partake – but they were unconvinced! I remember us also teasing each other with old-fashioned sayings like, ‘Morgenstund hat Gold im Mund’ (literally, ‘the morning hour has gold in its mouth’), a phrase Germans use to stress the importance of getting up early, to get a head start on the day. On another campaign shoot, this time in Monaco, we were served a picnic on a pebble beach for lunch, at noon, with full silver service by Karl’s butler Frédéric, who was by the way, part of the ‘family.’
What is the best advice that Karl ever gave you?
Karl said to me very early on, ‘be true to yourself’, and that advice has remained with me. During those whirlwind supermodel years, travelling between continents, appearing on prime-time chat shows, carving my way through crowds outside the fashion shows, these words helped me remain grounded.
What do you consider Karl’s legacy, whether in fashion, photography, or pop culture?
Karl’s scope of work didn’t just evolve, he continually re-invented it, emerging season by season as a key player and shaper of the fashion zeitgeist. His vision was so extraordinary. I’ve often described him as the Andy Warhol of fashion, because like Warhol, his work spanned such a wide variety of media and he understood the relationship between photography, artistic expression, celebrity culture and advertising. He had the magic touch and understood the fashion moment across everything he did, from his brilliant reinvention of Chanel to Fendi and his own label, KL.
As a photographer he was prolific and excelled at fashion portraiture. He was incredibly generous when taking photos, sharing his knowledge, and his enthusiasm was infectious. What was remarkable is that he was always open to my input and loved gathering people around a table, chatting and laughing.
You’ve recently curated an exhibition of 1990s fashion photography. Do you have a favourite photo of the two of you together? And a favourite photo that he shot of you?
There’s a fun image that was shot as part of that first Chanel campaign in Deauville. I’m pictured surrounded by paparazzi, which was Lagerfeld’s spirited riff on ‘supermodel’ fame.
He was famously dedicated to his work. How did he choose to relax and spend his down time at home?
How other people love, and live for their holidays, Karl loved his work and the art, culture and people that inspired him. He often said he dreamt up collections, and he would often wake in the middle of the night to sketch. He never much went on holiday, but moved between his various homes. He was a genius to whom, like a Mozart, incredible abilities just came naturally. Creativity was his life and listening to music, reading, and sketching was his relaxation.
Did Karl enjoy entertaining guests at his homes or were they his own private sanctuaries?
Karl was a fantastic host and enjoyed the company of friends and collaborators. The conversation would always be sparkling and the menu, exceptional. Fundamentally though, he always had a kind heart and generosity for people who were honest and loyal with him and didn’t break his trust.
Karl was a part of the fashion, photography, and art worlds. Was he an avid collector of artists or open to discovering new works?
Karl was always open to the new and eager to understand the perspectives and views of the young. He founded the 7L library, gallery and publishing house that showcased a diversity of creative talent. ‘I have a fatal attraction to books’ he once said of his abiding passion.
You have said that one of your most treasured possessions is a hand-painted Chanel bag that Karl gave to you. What do you believe was amongst his most treasured possessions?
I have many pieces of Chanel in my wardrobe including the hand-painted bag and an 11.12 quilted bag that I wear often. These are treasures that I will pass on to my daughters (but not quite yet!) Karl had a great respect for beauty and exceptional design. He was an avid collector in all aspects of his life, from his collection of Chrome Hearts jewellery to the numerous iPods, through to his bespoke high collared Charvet shirts.
Captivate! Fashion Photography From the ‘90s edited by Claudia Schiffer is published by Prestel, RRP £49.99. The accompanying exhibition is at Kunstpalast Düsseldorf until 9th January 2022. For more information, please visit https://www.kunstpalast.de/
